Friday, August 27, 2010

Berlin....A city of History

When we arrived late at night in Berlin, we were a little hesitant. There were people out partying on the streets, garbage covering the sidewalks and people yelling randomly at strangers. The city seemed unwelcoming and we felt a little uneasy, so we just decided to stay in our hostel, The Circus Hostel, and get some much needed sleep.

The bright sunshine woke us up in the morning, the air had that perfect summer morning feel, and it felt like a good day. The unwelcoming streets had transformed overnight into a pleasant atmosphere, filled with families, laughing children, and people sipping cappuchinos at small cafes. We were so pleased to feel at ease once again and begin our full day, but first...breakfast. We ate at our hostel, and for 3.50€ we had a wonderful buffet of meats, cheeses, yogurts and breads, that got us ready for the day! Amazing coffee as well, complete with an almond meringue biscuit.

We spent the first half of our day wandering around a local flea market, admiring all the tacky trinkets and outdated clothing. There was fresh fruit stands and wonderful handmade jewlery, and I even managed to find an awesome pair of black gladiator sandals for 4€!! I would definitly recomend visiting a local market or flea market, where you can get out and interact with locals and see their day to day life. After the flea market, we headed down the street about 20 minutes more and got to see a remaining section of the Berlin wall! It was so surreal to see this piece of history right before my eyes. It was so sad to stand there and imagine the pain this wall had put so many people through. We wandered around for awhile reading the posters they had up about the history of the wall, and the people that had died resulting from trying to escape the East or West. Seeing something like the wall really puts into perspective how lucky we really are, and how we need to savour life and all of our freedoms we have, I know I will now.

We walked back to the hostel through random streets, observing the interesting window displays and cute little restaurants until we ended up at a restaurants called Sisals. It was on a quiet little road away from all the main streets and had a great menu with even great prices. I had a chicken schnitzel topped with tomatoes, mushrooms and mozzarella cheese, with my new favourite beverage...Bionade...a german fizzy juice! After a nice long dinner we headed back to the hostel and stayed in for the night, visiting with fellow travellers and getting caught up with emails.

The following day was spent on a 6 hour walking tour with a funny man named Matt. We were afraid that 6 hours of history may get slightly tiring, but it was amazing and we loved every second of it! We started at the beautiful new Synogage and learned some intersting history, then headed to my favourite sight...a huge abondaned warehouse! Every inch of the warehouse, called Tacheles, was covered in paint and graffiti and the ground was all sand with random cars and chairs sticking up. It was occupied with squatters now who made it into art studios or concert rooms and the amount of creativity in this warehouse was amazing. A definite must if you visit Berlin! We walked so much that day, seeing the Government buildings, the Brandengurg Gate, Hotel Adlon (where Michael Jackson hung the child out the window), a beautiful Jewish Memorial made of rows and rows of cement blocks, Checkpoint Charlie, Hitlers bunker location and multiple offices and the beautiful Protesant church. There is so much more we seen but I can only write so much about it, but my plan is to write a continuation of Berlin when I have time because some of the stories and descriptions of the places I visited need to be written about. So I hope to do that in the near future when I do not have a timer on my computer ticking away...

Berlin may not be a Prague or a Paris when it comes to being picturesque, but when it comes to history, Berlin is a winner. The city is mainly grey in colour and with all the memorials and reminders of the past, it can be a little somber at times, but then suddenly you turn the corner and there is a blast of colour or artwork. The amount of creativity in Berlin is astonishing! I enjoyed every second in Berlin, not only for the pictures and the knowledege, but because i think I left there with a better appreciation for my life. I realized just how lucky I am to have the freedoms that I have and how easy my life has been. Berlin was an amazing city that changed the way I look at alot of things in life.....

Thank You Berlin

Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Amsterdam

Our travels to Amsterdam did not go very well...it was am extremely stressful morning. We walked all the way down to the square near the London Government buildings at 4:30am, only to miss our bus to the airport. The receptionist hadn´t mentioned that we actually had to be on the other side of the square to catch it!! She had also told us that the underground Tube didn´t run until 6 am...which was why we were taking the bus to begin with. Good thing we went and checked the tube anyways, becasue at 5:30am it was running!!! Thankfully, we got back on sceduale and made it to the airport just in time (although we were running to the gate!)

Our hostel, the legendary Flying Pig Dowtown, was located on Nieuwendiijk street just a short walk from the train station. The street was packed with tourists and locals alike shopping at trendy shops or hip cafes that lined the street. I was amazed at how busy it was in Amsterdam, although you could take one step off the main streets into a side alley and be completly alone. In order to cut costs we shared a queen size bed in a pretty average room, which happily was void of any mystery smells. I believe the attraction to this hostel for many was not the rooms or the bad breakfast, I think it was the smoking room. Upon arrival, we were given our keys and told that the smoking room was a hangout for all guests where anything could be smoked!! I noticed that many people sat there for most of the day socializing and smoking, not seeming to move much. We, on the other hand, were too busy exploring the beautiful city all day, there never really seemed like much time to just sit.

Our first day was spent truly like the Dutch...on a bicycle. We rented a couple couple bikes from a company called Yellow Bikes for a nice price of 10€ for 24 hours! We spent the entire day free of maps or watches and just biked. We explored every alley and canal, ate at some beautiful cafes along the water, and chowed down on chocolate dipped cookies! I have one word for our biking experience...Radical!! For the most part, you are completly alone while pedaling through the alleys and little roads, but once you hit a main street it´s insane! At one point, we were merging into a little lane with several other cyclists, a horse, an ATV and pedestrians! I would definitly recommend cycling through Amsterdam as it is truly the best way to experience Dutch life. Bikes seem to be a way of life in Amsterdam, people do all their daily activities on them. People were on cellphones, nursing children, eating, carrying bags of groceries, carrying trees, and we even seen bikes piled up with three children! You could honestly spend half a day just sitting and watching the lively streets go by! Amsterdam has the reputation of being this crazy party city, filled with Coffee shops and prostitutes, but so much of it was the complete opposite. Although there were coffee shops here and there, most of the city consisted of beautiful canals, cute little cobblestone streets, and small eateries. Everywhere you looked, it was beautiful and the entire time I was there I just couldn´t believe I was lucky enough to be somewhere so amazing.

That evening, we decided to head to the well known Red Light District! I didn´t really know what to expect before we went. I was imagining dark alleys, odd men lurking around, and women in suggestive clothing. I was very right, yet so wrong. There were dark alleys with women in suggestive clothing, but the people lurking around was what surprised me! It was like being in a lineup to see a cathedral or a monument. Families were lined up waiting to see the half naked women pressed up against the glass, crossing off the alleys they had visited on their maps, making sure not to miss one. We did see a couple customers enter and exit the rooms, and a young teenager get yelled at by a few working girls for taking pictures, but for the most part it was just another tourist attraction. As much as it was a tourist attraction, it was so odd at the same time to see women be put on display like shoes in a department store. I suppose it is the best way to deal with prostitution, as it is going to happen one way or another. However you look at it though, it is very odd, almost uncomfortable. My biggest question is though, would you really bring your 8 year old daughter to the Red Light District?

Our second day in Amsterdam was spent walking around the city and exploring some interesting museums. Our first stop was to the Exotic Museum in the Red Light District, which was a great laugh and worth checking out for 7€. The second museum was to the Sex museum, located a few blocks down for 4€. They were filled with antique porn, paintings, and the history of sex. It was definitly a nice break from the usual museums! As long as you go in with an open mind, you will have lots of fun!

Our last day was not spent in Amsterdam, we decided last minute to take a train out to a small village called Zaanse Schans! Within only 40 minutes or so, we reached the most beautiful little dutch Village. There was only one little road going through the town, where you could find an antique grocery store, a couple restaurants and some markets. We got to go and sample fresh cheese made in the village and watch wooden clogs be made! We stopped for lunch at one of the restaurants and I had the most amazing sandwich...Roasted chicken with truffle mayonnaise and bacon on ciabatta! Later we just sat on some grass and admired the beautiful scenery. There were bright green fields surrounding the little village dotted with goats and windmills..could it get any better? I am so happy that we ventured to Zaanse Schans, so we could experience the true Dutch lifestyle.

Amsterdam was probably one of my favourite cities so far that we have visited. There was so much diversity in the city! At times, the streets felt like absolute mahem with all the bikes, cars and pedestrians moving about, but the more you sit back and watch, the more you see that it just works. The coffeeshops and the Red Light District were definitly a once in a lifetime experience that I´m so glad I got to see, and the canals and streets were more beautiful then any postcard I have ever seen. I loved Amsterdam and I advise everyone to go there one day if you ever get the chance....it´s amazing!

Tuesday, August 24, 2010

London

Before I begin with London, I want to say I do apologize for not keeping everyone updated! It has been quite difficult finding internet access-without spending my entire days food budget.

Our flight was quite good coming into London, although alot of turbulance, and despite Heathrow having such a poor reputation for confusion, we got through it problem free. I knew it was a good day when on our way to baggage collection, I found 10 pounds!! It is always so funny when we wait at the baggage carousel because of the reactions to our backpack covers. Our covers are made from drappery fabric in this most tacky red and gold pattern, and when people see them they just gravitate towards them and touch them....I dont think they even realize they are doing it. I must admit they are definitly something to look at, but hey....it cost us only $3 to make and our backpacks stay in good condition.

We got on the Tube and took the Victoria Line train towards our hostel.....according to the internet directions. It turned out that these directions were actually for the Astor Hostel Victoria not the Astor Museum Hostel! Luckily, the girl at the front desk was very helpful and directed us to a bus that would take us to the other side of town to our hostel. The #24 bus actually turned out to be a pleasant tour of the city. For 2 pounds we got a mini tour of London, seeing the government buildings and just the everyday streets of London. From the bus stop we had to walk 15 minutes or so to Montague Street...not to be confused with Montague Square which is located directly beside it. At this point the rain began to fall and we were soaked head to toe! Despite the rough route to the hostel we were still quite chipper upon arrival becasue really...how can you get upset about getting lost and rained on in London....you´re in London!!! Whenever we get lost I always take it as an extra bonus, becasue only when you get lost do you find the best of a city..the real city.

The Astor Museum Hostel was quite nice and you really felt like you were in a hostel. I say this because the reception area was covered in maps, postcards, posters and mismatched paint, giving off a cozy atmosphere. The people at the front desk were very nice, and liked to party with the guests, and they tried their best to give you directions..although not always accurate. Upon arrival, they told us about a pub crawl that was happening that night which happened to be free for ladies...

Trying to get ready to go out partying is a challenge when you are backpacking. Shall I wear three day old shorts or 4 day old pants? We managed to throw together an outfit consisting of a wrinkled dress from the botttom of our bag and some nylons purchased from the local beer and wine store...how classy...I know, but you must improvise while travelling I am learning.

The Pub Crawl was so much fun, and we got to meet lots of great people from our hostel. The guide, Geramy, was lots of fun and took us to a variety of different places. We got to first go to The Penthouse, a swanky lounge up on the top floor of a building overlooking the London Eye and Picadilly Circus Square, followed by 3 more popular London night clubs. I would definitly recommend doing a pub crawl if you want to get a taste of a city´s nightlife without commiting to one club you don´t know too much about.

The following day we ventured to a Cambden Market and explored the many stalls of art, jewlery, erotic barbies, clothing and food. There was something for everyone there, including a store called Cyberdog that was basically a space age clothing store in a nightclub. It was neat, because part of the market is in an old horse hospital, so there were many beautiful horse statues placed around the market. We ended up walking the entire way back home to our hostel, spending some time in the red telephone booths and Russel Square park. The walk back was so nice and peaceful and a great way to see London. That night we went to a little pub in Soho called Nine and had a wonderful and affordable Sunday roast beef dinner, followed by a great comedy show we came across at the London Comedy Club in Picadilly Circus.

Our second day in London was spent sightseeing. We explored the parliament buildings, snapped some pictures at Big Ben, and admired the London Eye. We found our way to Buckingham Palace and spent some time strolling the park, watching people feed the birds. It was surreal when we made our way out of the park to the huge square in front of Buckingham Palace. It was so elaborate and the the gates were georgous with the royal emblems and gold accents. I must add that the guards in front of the palace truly do not move...I watched very carefully. Our tour of the Buckingham Palace was a little pricy, at 17 pounds, but it was worth every last cent. I cannot explain how elaborate the palace was inside....every room you walked in, you just stood there in shock. It was exactly what you would imagine the queen to live in, so elaborate and over the top, yet not tacky in any way...just perfect.

We went to the Strand Hotel for high tea later that afternoon. The tea was nice and strong and the three tiered array of treats was fantastic. There were the traditional crustless cucumber sandwiches, raison scones and clotted cream, and the top was filled with coffee cakes, caramel squares, and fruit bavarian cake. What an indulgance that was! I will add that we did indeed drink our tea with our pinkies up!

London was from what I have seen, a wonderful city. Full of history and old buildings, yet also filled with vibrant new artists and aspiring musicians. It seems to have something for everyone whether you want to enjoy the nightlife, wander through an art gallery, or picnic in a park. We did not spend nearly enough time in London, but I am so thankful for every second that I did.

Friday, August 13, 2010

The REAL Ireland!!

I admit, we were pretty dissapointed in Dublin the first day, and I was afraid that Ireland was not what I had dreamed it was.... oh but it is!! We went on a tour to the Cliffs of Moher, which is on the farthest coast of Western Ireland and although it was quite the journey, it was so worth it. All my expectiations of Ireland were fullfilled and more.

We woke up early, it turned out to be 5:30 instead of 6:30 becasue I had forgotten to set my IPOD an hour ahead from Paris time....oops. We ate our breakfast, then boarded our bus at 7:40am, a tacky green PADDYWAGON.....I hate how obvious they need to make it. Our first stop was at a little gasstation and there I got the most amzing treat....Coca Cola bubblegum!! Wow, how I wish we had that back home. Our next stop was at Bunratty castle, and although we didnt have time to go right up to it and explore it, even from a distance it was beautiful. From there we drove a few hours until finally reaching the Cliffs of Moher. Wow......that is all I can really say, you truly felt like you were standing on the edge of the world. The shear cliffs rose hundreds of feet up from the turquiose waters crashing up against the coast. The wind was so crisp and I felt like I was looking into a postcard. The water was so furious below with slow rolling waves and the seagulls were heard from all around. Behind you, there were beautiful flurescent green pastures dotted with cattle and little wooden fences. I wish I could of spent an entire day perched on the cliffs but the two hours went by quick and it was back onto the Paddywagon.
Our guide was a funny local man, who said it how it was, and gave us lots of interesting information, and our bus was small enough that we were able to take the narrow seaside road to our next destination, the small village of Doolin. It was like driving through a movie it was so perfect, not in a touristic way, but just a natural perfection. There were green pastures as far as you could see with lambs and cattle, and little beach houses with actual thatched roofs! The little narrow street through town was lined with little shops offering the days baking goods, or crafts and children were running about laughing and playing. we stopped at a place called Fitzgeralds, a carvery style restaurant. Bre and I both had braised ribs with of course...mashed potatoes, pea and carrots. It was very good, just what we needed after a long day.

Our next stop was to an area called the Burren. It was an area where the ground and cliffs were all limestone rock. It was the neatest thing to see. The rock had holes and crevices from water seeping through, and we had time to get out and explore. We got some great pictures and then proceeded to venture back across the road to the ocean side where the limestone rocks had formed cliffs. We walked careully right to the edge and took some great pictures of us sitting right on the edge.....i will admit, it made me a little nervous to look and see a few hundred foot drop to the rocky coastline and the crashing waves right below you, along with the gusting winds.

Our next stop was to an old little church and cemetary. The roof was completly gone, and the brick walls were barely standing. There were graves everywhere from years and years ago...it was quite eerie with the graves, the wind howling through the roofless church, and the gloomy skies. It was amazing to be able to visit something so old, and to read about the lives and families on the tombstones. After about 30 minutes we were back onto the bus en route to home. What a long bus ride, but most definitly worth it. The day just made me realize completly that Ireland truly is beautiful in every way I had imagined.

Today, Friday, we woke up semi-rested and ready for more adventure...out of Dublin. We didnt have anything booked and no real ideas where we wanted to go, but we ended up taking a random train to the most beautiful seaside village, called Howth. There were many fishing boats, and little shops where you could buy fresh seafood from the day's catch, and the air smelled of ocean and seafood! We ventured along the seawall and spotted some beaches in the distance and decided to try to find them...after climbing through barb wired fences, crossing though rail way tracks and down some roads we finally came across a little entrance leading to the beach. The sand was white, and there were big waves crashing against the shoreline. We played in the sand for awhile taking in this beautiful little corner of the world, not wanting to leave the secluded haven, but we had to as our last train was approaching soon and we still needed lunch. We walked back to the main little village and got some lasagna and fish and chips to go, and ate on a patch of grass overlooking the harbour.

We are leaving tomorrow, and I must say that we are sad to leave as Ireland has turned to be an amazing place to visit. Not just because of the amazing scenery, but because of the people and the way of life here. People are so kind here, and they really value keeping communities together and helping out one another. I have enjoyed my visit here so much and do hope to return one day to see the beautiful green pastures and to enjoy a conversation with a local.

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Dublin

We arrived in Dublin yesterday afternoon. The flight went well....I cannot believe how easily we got to the airport and figured it all out!! The landing was a bit bumpy as it was pretty windy. We found the airlink bus and for 10 euros got a return ticket, so that was a good value.

We were pretty excited to find our hostel, and found it quite easily on Gardiner Street, just off of O'Connar Street. The cute little sign reading, "Globetrotters Hostel" hung neatly from the wall and after figuring out the buzzer we were let in. The woman at the counter was so nice and helpful and got us all the information we needed quickly. She informed us that our beds were ready in our 12 bed mixed dorm and gave us our room key, Room E: Bed 1 & 2.

We left the cute lobby, of painted Irish Paintings and cozy furniture, to the stairwell, where the reality of hostelling set in. The dark corridor and stair well was heavy with the stench of cheap mens cologne (Adidas body spray) and the rose covered carpet. We looked at eachother with concern and proceeded to find E Room. I cannot explain the reaction on our faces when we walked in, there was bunks shoved everywhere in the small room, with unmade beds, garbage, cans, and clothing covering the floor and the SMELL.......I cannot explain the smell. Rotting old food, stinky feet, and mainly, an overpowering odour of that stupid mens body spray!!! The room was dark and there were old heavy curtains covering any sign of light, with an old chair beneath that looked like it had been dragged through the alley!

Our beds were unmade and still had the lasts guests bedding on, and the "lockers" we were told about were drawers under the bunks....some had an area to add a lock and some did not. We found two around the room that did have a locking hook and managed to shove all our stuff in..somehow!! Then, our roomies came in! A group of 6 young people loudly came in and said hello in broken english and proceeded to jump on the furniture, throw their clothing around and then straddle one another. We were a little concerened but thought maybe they would be nice....but turns out, they dont speak English and they are pretty much some of the most anti-social people we have met...we tried to make conversation many times. Our other roomies turned out to be a quiet girl who sits on her bunk staring at everyone looking like she is afraid of everything that moves, and the other guy is a harry potter look a like who sits on his computer...he was pretty nice for the brief 2 minute talk we had before he left.

We decided to head out and get some food, and fresh air! The air here I must say is amazing, its so fresh and crisp and brings me right back to the fall afternoons spent getting firewood back in 100 Mile House. The streets were pretty busy with locals and tourists, with touristy shops jammed with four leaf clovers and green shirts and then restaurants and so many dollar stores!!! We made it to the end of the street to a restarant called KYLEMORE. It was full of locals and it was a cafeteria style restaraunt.I ordered, mashed potatoes with peas and carrots and chicken, and Breanna ordered mashed potatoes with veggies and meatballs..It was soooo good and satisfied all my Irish cliches!

For the rest of the day we looked around at all the little shops, found an awesome Graffiti covered street where did a photoshoot, then we came back for the free hostel BBQ. It was funny, we walked out into the BBQ area to find a few people nibbling on burgers all staring awkwardly at one another...like they should be talking or something. We got some burgers which came to us in 3 pieces, and proceeded to take some "salad", which turned out to be the lettuce for the burgers, haha, people were wondering where all the lettuce had went! we ate it very quickly to dispose of the evidence haha. Later that night we had wine outside and listned to some music and waited for anyone to maybe visit...no one came....then videotaped ourselves singing to some ridiculous song, where we realized the computer guy from our room was watching..how embarassing :( We went out for a walk that night to the busy area and thought we might go into a bar for a beer, but the ones that were busy were too full and not too exciting. We went home and went to bed, scared to go back to the hostel, but no choice. Thank goodness for sleepsheets, earplugs, and eyecovers!

This morning we got up around 9am and went down for our free traditional Irish breakfast which was great! Baked beans, fried egg, hashbrown squares, tomatoe, bacon and hashbrown! A good way to start the day. Then, we got talking to a fellow traveller who was wanting to do the tour of Dublin as well, and decided to all head out. We ended up taking a hop on hop off tour around Dublin for 16 euro. It was interesting...we got to see the St. Patricks cathedral, Trinity University and some other important sights, with a highlight being the Guinness Brewery. The tour of the brewery was great, they took you through the ingrediants, how to taste it, through quizzes, and then a pint of Guinness up in the 7th floor lounge with glass walls so you could look out over Dublin.

I must say though, that Dublin really is not what I thought it would be. The streets are dirty, the walls are graffitied, and there are so many abondaned buildings. Yes, the one main street is the cliche Irish stuff, but who wants to just spend their time walking down one street looking at crappy souveniers. There are lots of people walking around in suits sipping coffee (not sure to what buildings), and pretty much it looks like a corner of LA or some uncharacteristic city.

Tomorrow though, Im very excited becasue we are adventuring to the most western side of Ireland to the cliffs of Moher! Look it up if you get the chance...look soo amazing! Yea, Im pretty sure that the countryside of Ireland will be what we love and not neccessarly Dublin. On Friday, we are planning to visit the Northern part of Ireland to maybe Derry or something. Im really looking forward to the countryside!

Anyways, all is well here and I had better go as this 80 year old man is sneaking a mickey of vodka out of his bag a couple of computers down and is laughing at himself...kinda odd. haha. Anyways, hopefully we will check in again soon....sorry for not having much updates but I can only update via computer desktop and not off of my IPOD, so I will whenever I can get to a computer. I must go now and try to cook up a mean meal at the hostel. :)

Saturday, August 7, 2010

Paris

Bonjour!
It is our second day in Paris and it is fantastic! Our first day in paris was a very tired day..... we were quite jetlagged and a little tired and irratable. We seen the eiffel tower and wandered around the streets surrounding us. And we topped it off with a trip to the supermarket for 5 euro chardonnay (amazing) and goat cheese, meat, fresh baked bread , and best of all...... this savoury macaroon, a basil and oregano combo, Mmmmmmmmm.

By the way, typing here on there computer is very difficult as it is a completly different keyboard then back home :)

So today, we began the day with breakie at our hotel of croissant, baguette with ham and emmetal, chocolate croissant, yogurt, and copious amounts of coffee!!!!!

Then, we started out on Pont D'iena across the Seine river to Palais de Chaillot then to the Citè de L'architecture. There was a beautiful view of the eiffel tower and beautiful fountains! Next we walked up Avenue Kleber to the Arc de Triomphe Etiole. It was a gigantic round about with a gigantic white arch with the most amazing detailed architecture.

Next we walked down the Avenue des Champs Elysees!! There were so many trendy shops along the way including a BANK!!!!!!! We were finally able to get money out! Along the Champs Elysees we stopped at the Maison de Auctione which was a stunning gold palace!!!! Next, we made our way to the Place de la Concorde to see the Obelisque!!! The egyptian detail was beautiful.

Then we went on the hunt for a toillete!!!! Harder than it sounds....... but we did finally in some park which some woman allowed us free of charge:) Not for the men though I noticed.....

Next we took the metro (which we have down pact now!!!!) to an area near the Sacré Coeur Cathedral. After some slushies we wandered around a few wrong streets, then asked some locals who in turn told us it was too far (but it wasnt) then we climbed about a million steps to finally reach the breath taking Catherdral. Inside was stunning....so many amazing glass murals and paitings and it just gave you shivers being in there.

The view from the hilltop was fantastic...you could see all of Paris. Next we ventured to the area of Montmarrte which was I think our favourite place so far. The streets were tiny and crammed with little shops and brassiers and pattissiers overgrown with vines. All the shops were filled with locals and tourists sipping wine and smoking. We ventured through the artists street where we seen the most amazing portraits that honestly looked like photographs!!!! We ate dinner in a little restaurant... penne pasta with fromage!!!

On our way back to the metro we came across this boulavard that was completly filled with sex shops and show theatres......kinda funny!!!

We then took the metro to home, bought some more cheap wine and are writing the blog!!! We are going to see the Louvre tomorrow and a bunch more places.....but first...a good nights sleep:)